Colle della Bonette

The alarm buzzes in the cool morning air of July 12th. There is a unique stillness to 7:00 AM on a Sunday, a quiet broken only by the throaty growl of our motorcycle warming up. Today is the day we tackle the giant of the Alps: the legendary Colle della Bonette. But first, every great adventure requires preparation. Our first stop at 9:44 AM is a quick but essential pit stop to fill up the tank. Feeding the beast with fresh unleaded fuel is ritualistic; you check the tires, adjust the mirrors, and feel the excitement building up in your chest. Just next door, we meet up for a quick breakfast. There is nothing quite like the smell of fresh espresso and warm croissants mixed with the scent of leather and gasoline. Over steaming cups, we trace the route on our maps, exchanging knowing glances. The road is calling, and the Alps are waiting.

Leaving the valleys behind, the road begins to twist and climb. The engine sings a glorious melody as we lean into the first sweeping bends, warming up the tires. The ascent towards our first milestone, Colle della Maddalena (known as Col de Larche to our French neighbors), is a masterclass in alpine engineering. As we cross the border at 11:13 AM, the landscape transforms into a dramatic canvas of rugged peaks and deep green valleys. The air grows sharper, cooler, and incredibly pure. We pull over to take in the sheer scale of the pass.

The border marker stands as a silent witness to countless travelers, but for us, it's the gateway to motorcycling heaven.

But the true queen of today’s journey lies ahead. Leaving Maddalena, we dive into the French valleys before initiating the climb of climbs: Colle della Bonette. This is where riding turns into pure poetry. The road narrows, the tree line fades into barren, moon-like scree slopes, and the hairpins become tighter and more demanding. Every downshift is a conscious decision; every twist of the throttle pushes us closer to the clouds. Reaching the summit at 12:42 PM, at a staggering altitude of 2,715 meters (and the Cime loop stretching even higher), is an emotional milestone. You feel incredibly small yet absolutely invincible standing next to the stone monolith.

The wind howls, the panoramic views of the Mercantour National Park stretch endlessly into the horizon, and the sense of accomplishment is overwhelming.

With hearts still racing from the adrenaline of the climb, we descend just enough to find a quiet spot for a well-deserved lunch. At 1:17 PM, we settle down for a 'pranzo con vista' (lunch with a view). Sitting on a grassy bank, looking out over the winding ribbons of asphalt we just conquered, we unpack our simple meal. Food never tasted so good.

The taste of fresh local cheese and bread, combined with the silence of the high peaks, makes this moment absolutely unforgettable. It’s a sensory pause, a chance to let the magnitude of the landscape sink in.

The afternoon light begins to shift as we start our return loop, heading towards the majestic Colle del Monginevro (Col de Montgenèvre). Reaching it around 5:00 PM, the riding style changes; the curves here are wider, faster, allowing for a smooth, flowing rhythm that feels like a dance. It’s the perfect transition to digest the extreme heights of the morning. By 7:00 PM, as the sun casts long, golden shadows across the landscape, we finally roll back home. The engine cools down with its characteristic ticking sound, a mechanical applause for a perfect day. We are exhausted, our muscles ache slightly, but our minds are still flying high above the clouds on the spectacular ridges of the Bonette.